Description
This unique hand cutter scores the glass on the inside and leaves a clean cracked edge ready to seal with no cleanup necessary. The cutting wheel generates a small shiny crack (not a deep scratch white score mark) on the interior surface. The cracked edge of the glass is ready to seal, no acid cleaning, belt sanding, no hot peeling necessary for a flawlessly clean seal. This tool leaves no residue like a conventional scoring knife does and cuts glass to repeatable high precision tolerances very fast.
Standard taper outer joints can be cut with the bent arm. Standard taper inner joints or tubing can be cut with the straight arm.
Cut tubing pieces up to 8″ long with a minimum diameter of 10mm straight arm, or 13mm bent arm and NO maximum diameter. It is described as a hand cutter but can be used on an open end of tubing chucked in the lathe if the lathe is rotated very slowly.
To cut a joint:
Install the bent cutting arm, no raw edge shield (teflon disc) and only one roller guide.
Set to the cutting depth you need and tighten the lock screw.
Slide the joint onto the cutter joint side facing the stainless shield.
Gently squeeze the handle while rotating the joint no more than one full turn. You want a thin shiny crack completely around the tubing. If the line is white and looks like a conventional score mark your grip is too strong. Grip more gently next time.
Remove the scored joint and set it aside for later use or…
Heat the scored area in a moderately hot gas/oxy annealing flame. The flame width should be close to the tubing diameter
Rotate the tubing to trigger the internal crack to break through completely.
To cut tubing
If cutting tubing smaller than 13mm ID install the straight cutting arm.
If cutting tubing with a raw edge install the raw edge shield. (teflon disc)
If cutting more than 4″ of tubing install the secondary roller guide.
Set the cutter to the desired cutting depth up to 8″
Gently squeeze the handle while rotating the tubing no more than one full turn. You want a thin shiny crack completely around the tubing. If the line is white and looks like a conventional score mark your grip is too strong. Grip more gently next time.
Heat the scored area in a moderately hot gas/oxy annealing flame. The flame width should be close to the tubing diameter
Rotate the tubing to trigger the internal crack to break through completely.
After 100’s of uses the grip pressure needed to trigger a shiny crack will go up. This means it’s time to replace the cutting wheel.
The cutting wheel dulls more quickly if you roll over the same shiny crack more than once. One rotation only please. If you grip tightly enough to create a white score line the wheel will dull more quickly as well.
This cutter utilizes thermally generated strain between the inside and outside of the joint/tubing to generate the crack, and therefore should not be used on glass which has residual thermal strain. Anneal your strained glass first before cutting. This does not cut quartz.
Another fine product from our friends at Toyko Seisakusho Ltd.
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